Ushuaia: gateway to the end of the world
Ushuaia, capital of Argentina's Tierra del Fuego province, sits on the Beagle Channel surrounded by snow-capped peaks for much of the year. Billed as "the end of the world," it's the main jumping-off point for Antarctic expeditions and a superb base for wild scenery paired with solid tourist infrastructure. The compact center can be walked in a couple of hours, with San Martin Avenue as the main strip for shops and restaurants. Don't skip getting your passport stamped with the famous "Fin del Mundo" postmark at the Argentine post office (San Martin and Maipu) - practically a rite of passage for anyone passing through.
Tierra del Fuego National Park
Just 12 km from downtown, Tierra del Fuego National Park offers lenga forests, peat bogs and views over the Beagle Channel. Entry runs roughly ARS 15,000 for foreign visitors (check current rates, as prices climb with inflation). The most popular trails:
- Senda Costera (Coastal Trail): 8 km through forest and shoreline, about 4 hours, easy and extremely photogenic.
- Cerro Guanaco: a demanding 8-hour round trip with sweeping views of the channel.
- Laguna Negra: short and accessible, ideal if time is tight.
Many visitors pair the park with a ride on the End of the World Train, which stops near the park entrance.
Sailing the Beagle Channel
A boat trip along the Beagle Channel is one of Ushuaia's must-do excursions. Boats depart from the tourist pier and head toward the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, the red-and-white beacon that appears on nearly every postcard of the region (not the original "lighthouse at the end of the world," but the one everyone actually visits). Along the way you'll pass islets packed with South American sea lions and imperial cormorants nesting on the rocks. Tours run 2 to 4 hours depending on the operator, priced from USD 60 to USD 100 for versions that include Martillo Island.
Penguins on Martillo Island
To see Magellanic penguins (and occasionally gentoos) in the wild, the excursion to Martillo Island run by Piratour is the best-known option - it's the only operator authorized to land and walk among the colonies, guided by naturalists, from November through March (outside those months the penguins migrate north). The trip combines Beagle Channel sailing with roughly an hour ashore. Book ahead in high season, as spots are limited and prices run around USD 150-180 per person.
End of the World Train, Laguna Esmeralda and Cerro Castor
The End of the World Train covers the old narrow-gauge route once used by prison inmates hauling timber, with historical commentary along the roughly 50-minute ride; tickets run about USD 45-55. For hiking, Laguna Esmeralda is a 7 km, roughly 4-hour round-trip walk with muddy stretches and a spectacular turquoise lagoon at the end - waterproof boots are essential. In winter (June to September), the Cerro Castor ski resort, 26 km from town, offers slopes for every level with reliably good snow thanks to its far-southern latitude, making it one of the few long-season ski destinations in the Southern Hemisphere.
Local flavors, Antarctic cruises and when to go
Fuegian king crab (centolla) is the local specialty, served in most downtown restaurants for around ARS 25,000-35,000 as a main course. Ushuaia is also the main departure port for Antarctic cruises, typically lasting 10 to 21 days; grabbing a last-minute berth from agencies at the pier can knock a significant amount off the price compared with booking months ahead, though availability isn't guaranteed. The best time to visit overall is November through March (austral summer, long days, penguins present), while June through September is ski season. April and October are shoulder months with fewer crowds and lower rates.