Salta, the pretty one
Salta city is the natural starting point for exploring Argentina's northwest. Its historic center, anchored by the pink-facaded Cathedral Basilica and the striking MAAM (High Mountain Archaeology Museum), holds much of the region's cultural weight. The MAAM displays Inca mummies discovered in 1999 near the summit of Llullaillaco volcano, above 6,700 meters; the three mummies are rotated in and out of display for preservation reasons, so not all of them are always on view. Admission runs around ARS 6,000. At night, the folk music peñas along Balcarce Street serve empanadas and wine with live folk music well past midnight - book a table ahead on weekends.
Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO site
The Quebrada de Humahuaca is a 150-km canyon listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Three essential stops:
- Purmamarca: home to the Hill of Seven Colors, with an easy one-hour loop walk around town for different viewing angles.
- Tilcara: home to the Pucara, a rebuilt pre-Inca fortress on a hilltop with valley views; admission around ARS 500.
- Humahuaca: the jumping-off point for the Serrania de Hornocal, known as the hill of 14 colors, 24 km down a gravel road (a shared van or 4x4 remis is recommended).
Cafayate and the Calchaqui Valleys
Cafayate is Argentina's high-altitude wine capital, home to torrontes, the aromatic white varietal that defines the region, grown above 1,700 meters. Wineries like El Esteco, Piattelli and Nanni offer tastings from ARS 3,000. The drive from Salta cuts through the Quebrada de las Conchas, past rock formations such as the Devil's Throat and the Amphitheater, the latter known for its natural acoustics and occasional impromptu concerts.
Cachi and the Cuesta del Obispo
The village of Cachi, with its colonial plaza and cemetery lined with centuries-old cacti, is reached via the spectacular Cuesta del Obispo, a winding road that climbs to 3,348 meters at Piquete de Cabra. The full drive from Salta takes about 3-4 hours by car.
Train to the Clouds and Salinas Grandes
The Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) departs from Salta's station and reaches the La Polvorilla viaduct at 4,220 meters; tickets run USD 100-140 depending on season. The Salinas Grandes, a salt desert covering more than 12,000 hectares shared with Jujuy province, are usually visited on a full-day trip from Purmamarca, with photo stops at the famous water mirrors and optical-perspective tricks.
Practical tips: altitude, coca leaves and how many days
Much of the route sits above 2,500-3,500 meters, so altitude sickness is common: staying hydrated, skipping alcohol on day one, and chewing coca leaves or drinking coca tea helps manage symptoms - it's a fully legal and widely accepted local custom. Renting a car in Salta (from USD 35-45 per day) is recommended for flexibility, though mountain roads demand confident driving. To cover Salta city, the Quebrada de Humahuaca and Cafayate at a relaxed pace, budget 5 to 7 days; with less time, prioritize the Purmamarca-Tilcara-Humahuaca loop over two days. Flights from Buenos Aires to Salta Airport take about 2 hours 15 minutes, with fares typically ranging USD 60-120 one way depending on how early you book; long-distance buses are also an option (18-20 hours). The best time to travel is April through November, the dry season with clear skies ideal for photography; summer (December to March) brings rain that occasionally closes mountain roads, though the canyons turn a deeper green.