The classic two-week route
For a first trip to Argentina, fourteen days are enough for a well-rounded loop between the city and Patagonia. Start with three or four days in Buenos Aires (San Telmo, Recoleta, Palermo, a milonga and an asado). Continue with two days in Puerto Iguazú for the falls, on the Argentine side and, time permitting, an afternoon on the Brazilian side. Fly to El Calafate for two days dedicated to the Perito Moreno glacier, one of the few glaciers in the world that is still advancing. Continue by bus, about three hours, to El Chaltén, Argentina's trekking capital, with two or three days to hike toward Fitz Roy or Laguna Torre. Close the trip with two or three days in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, with Tierra del Fuego National Park and a boat trip along the Beagle Channel.
Three weeks: adding Bariloche and Mendoza
With an extra week, the classic route gets a lot richer. After El Chaltén or before Ushuaia, add three or four days in Bariloche, with the lakes of Nahuel Huapi, the Circuito Chico and Cerro Catedral. Before heading down to Patagonia, another option is a two or three day stopover in Mendoza to visit Malbec wineries in Luján de Cuyo or the Uco Valley, with the Andes as a backdrop. Both destinations have direct flights from Buenos Aires, so they slot in without losing too much time to connections.
Four weeks: adding the northwest
With a full month available, it is worth adding Argentina's northwest: four or five days between Salta and Jujuy, taking in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a World Heritage site, the Hill of Seven Colours in Purmamarca and the Salinas Grandes salt flats. It is a region of Andean landscapes, indigenous culture and dishes like locro or Salta-style empanadas, very different in climate and altitude from the rest of the itinerary, so plan one or two acclimatisation days before going above 3,000 metres.
Domestic flights: the key to everything
Argentina is huge, and almost every itinerary like this depends on domestic flights connecting through Buenos Aires. Watch out for the city's two airports: Aeroparque (AEP), close to downtown, handles most domestic flights, while Ezeiza (EZE) is the international airport, about 40 km from the centre. If your international flight lands at Ezeiza and your next leg leaves from Aeroparque, allow at least three hours for the transfer, more at rush hour. Booking domestic flights 60-90 days ahead cuts the price significantly compared with buying closer to the date.
When to go and which direction to travel
Southern Patagonia (Calafate, Chaltén, Ushuaia) has its season between November and March; outside those dates many services close. The north (Salta, Jujuy, Iguazú) is good to visit year-round, though it is worth avoiding January in Iguazú because of the extreme heat. Many travellers start in the warm north and finish in cold Patagonia, or the other way around, depending on the season; the key is not to leave Patagonia for the southern winter if you want to hike. Book Patagonian legs as far ahead as possible in high season.
Budget, and combining with Chile and Brazil
As a rough guide, a mid-range traveller can budget USD 70-120 per day, covering accommodation, food and moderate activities, not counting domestic flights or special excursions such as glacier boat trips. The route combines naturally with neighbouring countries: from El Calafate you can cross to Torres del Paine in Chile by bus, about five hours plus border formalities, and from Puerto Iguazú you can visit the Brazilian side of the falls in a day, crossing the border with your passport. In high season, December to February and Easter week, book accommodation in El Chaltén, Ushuaia and Bariloche several months ahead, since bed availability is limited and sells out fast.